Using the grid on multiple coins.

[coop]

Sometimes when attributing our own coins there is the problem of Location on the mintmark. Of course the prime thing we first search for is the Separation first, then location of the mintmark. Sure you could do an overlay, but lets say you have a number of different choices of die numbers. You could do an overlay for each coin, or line them up and see where the location is exactly on two or more coins. I’ve illustrated how this could be used, using an obvious set of three dies to illustrate how location can be determined. First you need to take your images or obtain images from a secondary source. But I’m using my own images just for the sake illustrating the grid and how to use it.
First you need your images all sized exactly the same width. I usually choose the outside edges of the date to crop the coins.



The reason is that all the dates come from master dies and the mintmark is hand punched to a location undetermined by the hub. The mintmark is added to the dies from 1989 backwards. The 1990 forward coins the mintmark is added to the hub by the master die. So using the outside edges of the date makes the width consistent. So size them after cropping to your desired settings. I made the images RPMs in this series all 500 Pixels, but you can use any number. After cropping and making all images the same width, then you need a new image to place the grid on.
The new canvas I choose to make will be 600 Pixels by your choice of height. But remember if your images are too tall, you can run out of room, so I make this extra long to avoid having to add more canvas and crop it later to what I want the image to look like. I choose the black box on the bottom of the left vertical toolbar for the background. The lower box on the right is for the background color. The upper left box is the foreground color. So make sure the black color is in the lower box and make a new image with your dimensions. After creating this you can add a grid to mark where to place the images upper left corner.


When placing these on the left upper corner of where the grid intersects, this makes the grid lines the same on each image. Now comes the part that everyone wants to know. If I use the grid selection on the horizontal tool bar, the grid lines don’t remain to save them on to an image. But guess what, you don’t even need the grid selection for this. If you’re are placing them on an image that you want to save and send. I found a better way. Some have suggested drawing lines with the arrow tool with out the ends of the arrows. But why go to all that work? There is an easier solution. Try this: Check your lower box on the left and set the color of the tiles before moving on to the next step as you may have the same color background and tiles the same color. So make sure the lower box color is not the same as your background. So I changed this color from black to white. Click on the FILTER setting on the horizontal tool bar.


That opens a new screen. So select STYLIZE and another screen appears. Select TILES and guess what? Another screen appears.


From this screen you can choose what size the tiles will be. The larger the number, the closer the tiles will be. The lower the number, the fewer tiles you will see. So I usually keep these numbers low. It gets too busy and it’s like looking through a screen door if you have too many tiles. So choose the number of tiles you want. In this case I chose 8 as you can see around them better. On the next line down the tiles can be laid turned with higher numbers and straight with lower numbers. (It makes the tile angle uneven.) So, I use the setting of 1 to make them straight like the grid. But you will find you can save this on your image when you want to send them or paste them elsewhere.
So you have a background color and the tiles forming a grid. Now move the images over onto the left upper corner to make the images have the exact same pattern over each.


This will show the different locations of the mintmark as the grid running off the upper left corner of the dates with the same width will make them fall on the exact same places, showing the variables (mintmarks), the dates the non variable.

Find two that match your location and if the separation is the same your almost figured out what your looking for. A match of separation and a match of location for your coin to a known die. So now if you want, you can flatten the image, then add a new set of tiles over the three images. Save it with a filename you will remember.


That is how it’s done.
There are some variables that also needed to be considered. Lets say one of the images doesn’t show both edges of the date. Then you need to find where to crop the images to make them exactly the same width. Cutting through the center of numbers (Exact Center) is another way. You can crop them with one or two digits missing. What ever you need to do to make the width visually the same. Then you can size them identically and do your overlay or place them on a grid.

[Dick]

After such a beautiful set of photos, I feel a bit at loss, but I'm going to ask anyway: How much effect has the little 48" shop light, on viewing coins? I just installed one over my desk, and am able to see the coins, well enough to identify, but I don't know if it will be of any use for closeup views. I'm referring to the photography side. I guess a test would not hurt a bit.
Dick

[Steven]

Cool coop,
This is my first try with the grid you mention.
I think I may have been a bit off in the croping of the second photo but I think I get the idea.
Steven

[coop]

It took me a while and I tried several ideas, but this one is the best and fastest. Enjoy and glad I could share this with you.

[Dick]

Steven, from where I sit, the cropping is right on, and obviously two coins were used. I say that, because all the date info, and points seem to be lined up very close, and the MM is not the same place, in both. Nice job!
Dick

[Dick]

Coop, Do you know what the three MM's are, ( from top, to bottom)? My indications are: top, -081, middle, -117, and bottom, -158. Your explanation of the grid method, and the photos, also provides me with a test of my method, IE, triangulation. If it is effective, and fairly accurate,it will be MUCH faster than using the site photos, to go thru, and confirm. My charts will give the same info, but much faster. THis is only good for the 1960D, but the method will apply to any date/mint.
Dick