Proof question !

slikrep · Member

Let me preface this by again thanking all of you so very much for answering questions which are obvious to many. My question is how you can tell the difference between a proof coin and a regular one. Are there not many proof coins in regular circulation? It seems that many of the coins I have are much thicker in the characters than others of the same date. Also, is it just me, or does every coin look like a double something under heavy magnification. I have so many rolls of coins to look through and I'm not really sure what I am looking for. For now, just something that looks out of the ordinary. I am going to take an inventory of my coins in the next few days, and maybe if I list that, I could be tutored on the best ones to look for variations. Thank you again, all of you, for your help and suggestions.

eagames · Expert Member

I don't know of any case where the mints put any proof coins into general circulation.

If someone buys a set and spends one it could happen but would not happen much. For example all 1856 indian cents were proofs (probably samples given to the government as the first small cents) and they show up for sale in circulated grades but are still proofs but that is a rare example.

Just having a high rim does not mean a coin is a proof it just means it was a strong strike. Strong strikes have higher rims because the metal moves towards the rim and pushes the rim up.

A coin that looks like a proof in circulation is probably a nice coin from a fresh die and would be called "prooflike" but still is not a proof.

Many proof coins are different designs. On modern cents 75-06 S mint coins are used as proofs and no S mints are made for circulation. There's also design differances like the wide and close AM of america (AM is wide/seperated only on proofs cents from 94-06 unless it is an error where they used the wrong reverse) Also the designers initials FG are in a slightly different location. AM is wide on all proof and normal 92 and before cents. It's close not seperated on 93 proof and regular cents then 94-06 proof is wide non proof is close.
Pics of wide/small and errors where they used the wrong reverse:
http://koinpro.tripod.com/Articles/_Ty-2_Reverse_Cent_Varieties.htm

Also some years the quarters have a slightly different reverse design.

On everything looking doubled....
When we look too close we see microscopic things that are meaningless. Many coins have a tiny bit of strike doubling. If what is found is strike related and minor it has basicly no value (unless it gets sold with misleading hype). Even a real double die that requires more than 15X to see is not very collectable or of value. Stuff notable at less than 15x might be collectable but ones you see with no magnification like some of the well known 55, 72, 83 ddos are in general the most valuable.

rollmeupabe · Veteran Member

My advice would be to look at pictures on this site for what doubling looks like. If you have a lot of wheaties I would try 1941 or 1936 as years you could find a DDO that really sticks out. It is amazing what a thrill you get when you find your first obvious DDO. I had a similar experience when I first started a few years ago. Every coin seemed to have something that caught my eye. It was only after I found a few that matched the coins on this site that I was able to start differentiating.

Again, study the pictures on coppercoins.com before looking at your coins. That will help you focus on the areas of the coins that have the most common doubling. Also, study one date and mint mark at a time. If you switch between different dates and mint marks it is more difficult to focus on the points of interest for a specific coin.

slikrep · Member

I have quite a few rolls of both 1941 and 1936. Were you speaking of only the plain version of each, or are there doubles which have mint marks also?

eagames · Expert Member