Please help...1960sm,lg

[chooksey]

I have a few 1960 cents a some 1960 D cents.
I'm trying to understand the difference between the large and small date 1960 Lincoln. How do I determine which is sm and lg?
Please show (image) me to understand.
Thanking you in advance.

[eagames]

On the large date the 6 is an upside down 9, the same length which is pretty long.

On the small date the 6 is not the same as an upside down 9, the top of the 6 is shorter. The 0 is also smaller. On all small dates that I ever saw they have master doubling on the inside curl of the lower loop. You can see it in the example picture. Large date's don't have that.

Most folks just look at the top of the 6, if it's long it is LD, if it's short it's SD. That works for me.

The same rules apply to D or plain. You'll see that on D they are both easy to find but on plain the small dates are harder to find.



Large date example:
http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1960&die_id=1960p1do001&die_state=mds

Small date example:
http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1960&die_id=1960d1mm101&die_state=lds

[chooksey]

[coop]

Comparing them on the same coin is unique.


This one is a 1960D-1MM-100 RPM and a Large over small date. Note the upper parts of the 6. On this coin you can see the shorter small date and longer tail on the large date. also not the difference in size of the zeros in the date. A very nice coin to compare the two dies with. The die was hubbed with two different hubs leaving a part of each in the date and a strong separated RPM North. Enjoy. Yes, they do happen.

[eagames]

Great one Coop, almost as good as an overlay

A super way to show it!

The one thing to note is the thing on that coin that looks like the very short small date top of the 6 is a die chip/crack not the small dates upper tail of the 6. That's on the later die states but not on the earlier state version. So the length differance on the top of the 6 isn't as dramatic as it looks in the pic (the LDS looks like a triple die from that thing). See the MDS pic, it shows it without that extra top tail and might be better to just show the differance in size between LD and SD:


http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1960&die_id=1960d1do001&die_state=mds

[Dick]

Coop, I was just looking at the 1960D-1DO-100, and noticed the differences between the two. I thought at first that it was a small over large, but when I went back a second time, I noticed seversl differences, that are quite obvious, when one compares the two, in short time difference. I'm still looking! Good luck to all!
Dick

[eagames]

Dick,

That 1DO-001 is a small over large.

That makes it a class III design hub doubled, thats when they hubbed it with 2 different designs. Notice that the large is not as deep as the small? That's random not based on the order of hubbings. If you look at the 70-S proof 1DO-003 which is a large over small it has both of equal depth.

The reason I note it is when they say small over large it's the order of hubbings and has nothing to do with the depth which is not always related (as far as first being less deep) to the order. On most DDOs the second hubbing is equal or deeper than the first since the deep areas are already pushed in but still the being "on top" look is not always present on these types of DDOs.

On the 60 1DO-001 the RPM is totaly unrelated to the DDO, just a random thing to have both on one coin.

There's also 3 other 1960 with both size of dates, all 3 are proofs. Two are large over small (almost equal depth) and one is small over large (not equal depth). Being equal depth/strength realy changes how they look.

Neat stuff huh?

[Dick]

Hi ED! HAppy New Year!
I still get confused when it comes to the more advanced thinking about the over-all process! Give me another 100 years, and maybe it will be clear, (as mud)! I am getting to where I recognize a lot of the different appearances that I see, but there is still a lot to learn! Like getting all my "marbles in one basket". I'm tryiing to get all my (cents) in a separated state, by year, and mint. Once boxed, then I can go by rolls, or being less than a roll, by containers. Doing as Chuck suggests, by separating each decade by dates, and then by mints. Then I can start to look for the varieties. But, before doing that, I'll have to start on my flips, to remove the coin for viewing. There are well over a thousand "details" there. RPM's Die dents, feeder damage, die cracks and breaks, laminations, etc. Speaking of laminations, I ran into one today that is as big as any I have seen, I'll try to post it in the next day, ot two.
Happy New Year, ED! I hope this year brings all the missing varieties you seek!
Dick