1944 D/S Question

[Rhubarb]

I was looking at the November issue of Coins magazine price guide and ran across 44 D/S Type 1 and also Type 2 listing. Can anyone tell me the difference in Type 1 and Type 2?

David

[eagames]

On #1 the S is shifted above the primary but on #2 the primary is almost right over the S. #1 is nicer and worth more. The site lists them both, the #1 looks a lot nicer in a high grade if you ever see one.

http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1944&die_id=1944d1om001&die_state=mds


http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/diestate.php?date=1944&die_id=1944d1om002&die_state=mds

(in this case what they call type-1 is OMM-001 and type-2 is OMM-002)

[Rhubarb]

Thank's Ed,

I didn't know the difference. I did see the listing's on the site but didn't put them as Type 1 and Type 2. Thank's.


David

[coppercoins]

This is one of the major reasons why I am an advocate of people learning their terminology and using it properly - and one of the biggest problems comes in publications. The publishers of these magazines and guides need to hire competent people who can write these guides with proper terminology so that we might be able to teach the collectors the right terms and have them stick.

There is no such thing as "type" in a 1944 D/S OMM. Simply put. The use of the word "type" when describing them is wrong. The term "type" is strictly meant for different designs of coins, hence the name "type set".

Doubled dies, repunched mintmarks, and over mintmarks should be described in guides as "die #1", "die #2" and so forth. Then there wouldn't be the confusion we face when we try to teach collectors the right way to talk about their coins.

[eagames]

The TPGs like to do it too.

They use it for some of the DDOs and RPMs.
Then to add to the confusion on some years with multiple DDOs they start using type numbers NOT based on die numbers.

For example on 71-S proofs PCGS calls die-1 type-2 and they call die-2 type-1. I think they tried to make the one they deemed as best as type-1. It's confusing.

[Dick]

Chuck, I was reading a write-up today in ths NN email I received,and would like to ask you a bit more about the volunteers you need. What are the more precise requirements you must have? thr article is not that specific. I imagine there are many more who have not seen the article mentioned, unless they subscribe to NN. I may be able to contribute a loy of my tome, depending on your info. I am, or should say have been diagnosed as "legally blind", and cannot drive anymore, but with what I got from your write-up, I thionk I can be of some assistance.
Dick

[GarryN]

The Die #2 looks obvious also. Angel Dee's has a 1944 D/S MS64 red for $1,600. No mention if its the #1 or #2. They do not put photos on their site either. Lincolncent.com has two #2's. $175 and $125. Is the EF example the one used on this site?

[coppercoins]

Dick - Let's keep discussion within a topic on that topic.

Visit this page to see what the volunteer project is all about:

http://www.coppercoins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3214

or just go to the website for the project:

www.thecentproject.com

[coppercoins]

Garry - The cent used for the die photos on this site is in the master collection. The ones in lincolncent.com are different coins.

[Dick]

Okay, Chuck,I'll do that. Sorry about the "misplaced" post, but I didn't want to get lost in the shuffle, trying to re-locate it.
Dickk

[Rhubarb]

Thank's Chuck and everyone for there reply's. I do understand that Chuck and Bob know there business when it come's to copper coin's (a penny) and also the website.

Thank you for clarifying the difference in Type 1 and Type 2 vs. Die 1 and Die 2. I am new and still learning.

The 1 thing I don't understand is this hobby is too loose in there subject's on cent's. This is why I'm glad to be a member of this community. I thank everyone here for there advice.


David

[coppercoins]

David,

I want to make it clear that my post above was hostile in reference to publishers and their erroneous guides - not you.

I feel your pain in misunderstanding things the way they should be, because you have one recognized guide here saying "type 1 and 2" another recognized guide saying "variety 1 and 2", then you come here and hear "die 1 and 2". You never know exactly what to call what.

Well, that's what the true experts are for...the ones who don't sit in their high castles writing books tossing them down to the paupers below, the true experts are the ones who will get involved, talk to collectors, and work with them in their education. I know a few of both types, and the ones who will talk to the beginner collector are the ones that get my respect.