| Author |
Message |
 D42Advanced Member
Posts: 108
Joined: 09 Jan 2008
|
|
 Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:59 pm |
 |
|
Just dropping in to say Hi
Is there a printable submit form on the site, or did I just miss it.
I do have a question (I think I know the answer but I won’t know for sure if I don’t ask)
I see that die scratches are used as markers for determining the different varieties , I have a good number of coins with heavy die scratches, does this indicate that there is something wrong with the coin and I’m overlooking it.
This digital camera sure does use up batteries , I’ll have to get the rechargeable ones
I’m still kicking myself for dumping those rolls of 83’s
I guess that’s what happens when you forget why you saved something.
Drew
|
|
|
|
|
 |
 coopExpert Member
Posts: 3402
Joined: 17 Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
|
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 1:51 pm |
|
|
| Quote: |
Drew said:
I see that die scratches are used as markers for determining the different varieties , I have a good number of coins with heavy die scratches, does this indicate that there is something wrong with the coin and I’m overlooking it.
|
Die markers are like fingerprints to identify a certain die. Die scratches were made on the die when erasing die clashes/cleaning grease from the die. Die scratches may in different die stages during the dies life. Some scratches maybe there from the beginning, others come with cleaning/other with another cleaning/or flatten with the more strikes the coins in the thousands. Die scratches/gouges/cracks/chips/breaks/clashes happen over and over along with wear. So markers are good to help you find a certain die state. Markers do/don't need to be present to confirm a certain die. If you notice markers happen in the same areas. Depending how the die was cleaning, the scratches may occur in different/same direction. You may even find die scratches over die scratches in different direction. Die scratches are just a part of life for a die. Die crack/chips/breaks also happen over and over on different dies. This can identify a certain die, but before that happened to your coin, the crack/chip/break may/may not have happened. The marker on column # 12 die crack/chip/break probably happens the most on the series. So if you looked for that as a marker on all coins, you would find this happens a lot. So best to go with the formula S-L-M. what does that mean? Separation/Location/Markers. First the separation. RPMs can be identified in several directions with varing degrees of separation. Doubled dies also have a separation of varing directions. So first you would determine the direction. Second on RPMs you would consider location which could also be in any direction from the legges of the date. On doubled dies, location of mint marks can also help in determining a certain die number. But lastly, markers. Markers will help to determine which die state and if those markers are know to happen on a certain die. Markers can come and go, reverse/obverse dies may be switched. So don't search for a certain marker and think you have a certain die. The formula doesn't work in reverse. You much search for separation first. Location second and third if known markers are known for your die. Markers may/may not be present on your example. You might see fading markers also. These were there, but on your coin they are flattening. You may see them next to number/letters/designs that are remainly, but they fad into the open field on coins.
So any marker can be present on most coins, it just doesn't mean it came from a certain die, or it may match and you know you have a coin made from that die. but remember S-L-M in that order and you won't waste time trying to search for markers on the wrong die.
Hope this helps.
_________________
Richard S. Cooper
You may be only one person in the world, but you may also be the world to one person.
|
|
|
|
|
|
 DickExpert Member
Posts: 5780
Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Location: Rialto, CA.
|
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:38 pm |
|
|
Drew, you say the camera "eats up the batteries". Did your camera come with a small wall xfmr? If so, that would be the way to go, as it by-passes the batteries, completely. The camera is suppplied power thru the USB cable, (If so equipped). I have two, or three, and each has it's own power supply, (Wall transformer).
Dick
_________________
" Deja Moo: The feeling that you've heard this bull before".
|
|
|
|
|
|
coopExpert Member
Posts: 3402
Joined: 17 Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
|
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:43 pm |
|
|
If you have an old re-chargable battery, replace them with new ones as the new ones have a longer life on them than the old.
_________________
Richard S. Cooper
You may be only one person in the world, but you may also be the world to one person.
|
|
|
|
|
|
D42Advanced Member
Posts: 108
Joined: 09 Jan 2008
|
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:27 pm |
|
|
The information helps a great deal – Thanks
The camera that I’m using is nothing fancy it’s a HP Mz 67 I just bought it a couple of weeks ago. It’s good enough for what I using it for. They say that Alkaline batteries don’t last long and they sure are right, so far I’ve used 8 batteries ( it holds two ) I had them laying around the house so I thought that I’d use them up first, and to use NiHM or Lithium batteries. So I think I’ll be better off with the NiHM and a charger. I guess the display screen pulls all the juice. I hope they last longer than the ones that I’ve been using. I wish that it did have some way to run off the computer.
Drew
|
|
|
|
|
|
daggitSenior Member
Posts: 560
Joined: 26 Oct 2007
Location: Canada
|
|
| Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:43 pm |
|
|
Hi Drew I use the Lithium batteries and they go a couple weeks for me, depending on the amount of pics I take. I avoid looking through the images on the camera as it uses up the battery faster I upload them and scan through them on the computer. when the Lithiums show low on juice don't chuck them right away...if they sit for a few days they are good for a few more pics  (Imma cheapskate  )
|
|
|
|
|
|
D42Advanced Member
Posts: 108
Joined: 09 Jan 2008
|
|
| Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 5:43 pm |
|
|
I picked up the Lithium batteries there wasn’t much in the way of chargers, so I’ll order one.
I didn’t think to just take a series of pictures and load them on the computer and mess with them there. Thanks
I took a few pictures of the 1983 DDO Die # 1, and will post them, the photos are starting to look a little better, I am slowly getting the hang of it.
Drew
|
|
|
|
|
|
 coppercoinsSite Admin
Posts: 2809
Joined: 29 Jun 2003
Location: Springfield, Missouri.
|
|
| Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:15 pm |
|
|
Drew - In response to all your questions:
1. 'Printable Submit Form' - Would this be for attribution? That would be a good idea, but we have nothing at this time.
2. Die scratches and other die issues are used only to help identify coins to dies that have die varieties...not that markers mean there is a die variety. There are markers on virtually every die ever used to mint coins, but only a small percentage of them have doubling or repunching on them.
3. Batteries - I simply bought cameras that only take lithium batteries, and have generally been happy with the models of the past five years. Early digital cameras and their batteries developed memory and had a very short life span. My Coolpix 5200 and D80 both use batteries that last for hours in the camera and have a 45 minute recharge cycle.
_________________
C. D. Daughtrey
owner, developer
www.coppercoins.com
cd@coppercoins.com
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
