Using pics from other literature

Earwig · Veteran Member

As you know i have been on a heavy hunt for 60d rpm 11. Brian Ribar sent me a copy of the Hub from 1999 with pics with pickup points. Can I scan these and put them on the forum with pics of the coins of each die state i believe to have found 2 be rpm 11? I dont want to break the rules or get NCADD mad.

Eric

coop · Expert Member

You could ask for permission to use them and add to the image these are from: NCADD files, showing the source. I'm sure avid collectors would like to see them as the image in the RPM book looks more like a damaged die rather than a rea RPM. You might try that before posting. Or they may have special rules on the correct way to post them.

Bob P · Site Admin

I agree with Coop. Asking for permission to post them, or adding to the text that the photos were obtained with permission is the only way to get around the copyright. However, if the pictures are posted on the Internet somewhere, they are considered public domain, and sending the link to those photos is not a copyright infringement. I am sure Brian wouldn't mind, but it is best to ask first.

Earwig · Veteran Member

Well i emailed NCADD to as permission i do believe it was John Bordner that i sent the email to. It has been a week and no reply hope it come soon or ill my post will turn into an article. Is there a good stand alone grid program. I only have a limited photoshop version and my vuepro doesnt do grids.

Eric

coop · Expert Member

Eric: See if this forum thread helps. You place the image on the tiled image, then flatten and place new tiles over the old grid/over images. I've changed the alignment. I now use align with the upper right corner. Don't forget to flatten.
http://www.coppercoins.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2432&highlight=grid

Dick · Expert Member

Coop, do you remember what the three MM's were in that thread? I used the photos, as a test of my method, and came up with ID's for each. Does -081, top, -117 middle, and -158, bottom sound right?
If they are correct, then my work, and time spent working on it was well spent. It is MUCH faster than looking up on the site. I just refer to a chart with the criteria, and compare numbers, and photos. Of course it only applies to the 1960D!

Dick

coop · Expert Member

018, 012, 005 From what I can see. They are ones I have extras of.

Dick · Expert Member

Coop, thanks for correcting my "final exam"! Obviously, I flunked! I suspect that the theory is sound, but the eye-sight is not up to par. Actually, I suspected the two most obviously "different", might be in the first dozen, or so, just from the appearance of the MM. Which proves my method will "locate" a MM, but not identify the variety. It also proves, I will have to check 16 flips, to see what they "actually" are! I cannot SEE the differences, even with max, (45X) magnification. I did get the DATES correct. LOL
All kidding aside, this will work on most coins, PROVIDING a standard base for reference is used, (established). The sight does not have this standard, but that is not important.. The availability of the info on the site is worth every bit of time, and toil given, to make it a data base, as good as any I have seen! I refer to the photos, and the size of each one. I understand that MUCH detail would be very difficult to display, if the same size reference were used. All of the photos do give the information needed for location, whether a full date, or a partial date be displayed. If VARIETY ALONE were the only factor, then ONLY the MM would be shown, with a note as to which date is applied.
As far as the time invested, (mine), I consider it worth every bit of effort put into it, if for no other reason, it gives me access to the site info, (without the photos), for the priliminary search. I have broken the "site info" down into several classes, or groups, and can make a search by any one of several criteria, namely the most important reference points with the date. Then the variety can be assertained, readily, by site info, and visual comparison.Thganks for your time!
Dick

fiddle-fart · Veteran Member

this program would be a great help for a beginner like myself.

where can I find such a program?

does it work for other parts of the coin e.g. rev.

Thanks
Mike

coop · Expert Member

The Photoshop Version I have is 5.5. There are new ones, but you can buy the older ones like mine for a lot less. The newer programs are over $800. Watch on ebay and get an older version, at least 5.5 as you may not want the ones with floppies instead of disks as most computer don't use them anymore. (I still do for images) I've used that program for 10 years and still find new stuff on it.

Dick · Expert Member

Mike, the man to talk to about this is Coop. What we were discussing was the use of triangulation, for determining the MM variety, and the use of PhotoShop overlays for the same purpose. I didn't know how to do the overlays, (still not proficient, but....), and my method, (Triangulation). it locates the MM with reference to the date, and more specifically, the tail of the "9". It works to a certain extent , but it is not infallible. Case in point, the 1956-D with the MM "hanging from the tail of the "9". There are many lke that, and I still can't identify them, other than to show the different dies. I recommend the overlays. it is MUCH faster, and more exact. The ones I worked with are the 1960-D, all 174 of them!
Dick