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Grading IHC
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Dick
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:48 am Reply with quote

This is a question to the general public:
What do you consider the absolute minimum detail that HAS to be present, to qualify for a particular grade? Consider it a "crash course" in grading. Thanks for your thoughts, and participation.
Dick

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KurtS
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 12:01 pm Reply with quote

Rick Snow has written an IHC grading guide with simple criteria for assigning grades. Here is the link (pdf file) Very Happy
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Dick
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 5:51 pm Reply with quote

Hi Kurt, I wnet to the link, and yes, it is much easier to read than my book. I bought Rick's 3-ring notebook with all tha data published to date, and it sure helps, (except for the 1890-1900). That hasn't been publushed yet, but a lot, if not all the info is available. I'm sure it is only a matter of time. Meantime, I have started my "IHC Grading 101" course. I modified some of the info, to suit me popsition, and came up with four dushes of coins for the problem coins, (rim damage, gouges in field, etc), P, G-4, and G-6. with a tube of 1893 IHC. Another run thru them will give a better grading. Maybe I should have said the separation will be more accurate, than the first time.
Dick

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KurtS
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 6:50 pm Reply with quote

Yes, damaged IHCs are often problematic to grade...it's a pity so many are out there, but it comes with the age, doesn't it? Confused One one end, dealers often overgrade IHCs, and collectors on forums often undergrade! Laughing I'm more than happy to go by Rick Snow's standard for F12, who states:

All letters of LIBERTY must be partly visible,
though they need not be entirely legible.


Naturally, when there is excessive wear/damage in one area, that's going to knock down the grade. I've seen the worst confusion between F15/VF20, which is determined by a complete the base on the headband.
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eagames
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:33 pm Reply with quote

One other thing that gets them graded below good is if the rim is gone.

IHCs are tricky, if you never had a real unc you might think some are AU-UNC but if graded they might be lower than that.

Even if you hate slabs it's a good idea to look for deals on some common date graded ones to make a grading set and get one unc coin to see what it looks like. You can often get them for the same price in a slab.

I've heard it said that for every nice IHC there's a bucket of culls, they got some hard use. They were like dollar bills are today. They were well used and they used them longer than moden dollar bills stay in use.

Smile

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KurtS
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 7:54 pm Reply with quote

I've heard it said that for every nice IHC there's a bucket of culls...and many common dates, in 2x2s with a price of $5 Laughing

I'm sorta joking, but go to any show, and a good 60% the IHCs are problem coins or outright culls. Gotta laugh because I spent 3 solid days at the last show searching for just 12 problem-free raw IHCs for a friend.
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Dick
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 11, 2009 11:53 pm Reply with quote

Well, thr re-run came out as I expected: One VG-8, maybe a bit better, one G-4, two AG, and ten problem/culls. Mostly severe dentsdamage, etc on the rims, and deep gouges in the field.. the resrt, Poor. Not a good score, but it is only one date, on the other hand it is nearly a full roll. I would venture to say that the balance of the 500 IHC will come pretty close to this test run.
Yes, It is time to consider looking elsewhere for the individual dates, even if they have to follow the grading that is present in my folders, and tubes. I onlt bought them that way, so that they would not be offered foesale any more! Shocked Twisted Evil
I do have sopme fairly nice looking coins in the folders, not many, but there are a few, that might grade VF-15, maybe a bit higher. They would have to be closely checked to be sure.
IHC Grading 101, will continue, even if it never get any higher grades for examples, I can always ask someone to post an image of a certain grade.....Or post, without mentioning the grade. That would be more practical. Now to find someone who has some....
Dick

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eagames
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 12:40 am Reply with quote

Quote:
I spent 3 solid days at the last show searching for just 12 problem-free raw IHCs for a friend.


It's true, decent problem free IHCs are getting harder to find. Then when you see one with nice details and look close and notice it's bent. Laughing

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Ed
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Dick
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 12:57 pm Reply with quote

Ed, You are implying that it might have been placed ther? now who would do something like that?
Dick

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eagames
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 5:28 pm Reply with quote

Dick,

At several shows I did what Kurt did looking for decent no problem IHCs and a few times thought I finnaly found one then when I look closer I see it's in great shape but slightly bent.

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Dick
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 6:51 pm Reply with quote

I wonder how a couple pieces if hardwood,, would work, properly places, to remove the bend?
On another tune, I found a very good 1893, but had to put it in the culls, and pproblem coins. It had been harshly cleaned, and had scratches everywhere. This batch will go into mineral oil for a momnth, and be checked foe RPD'd. If nothing else, I can fill the folder with RPD's
Dick

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Dick
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 6:55 pm Reply with quote

I wonder how a couple pieces if hardwood,, would work, properly places, to remove the bend?
On another note, I found a very good 1893, pretty good liberty, but had to put it in the culls, and pproblem coins. It had been harshly cleaned, and had scratches everywhere. This batch will go into mineral oil for a month, and be checked foe RPD'd. If nothing else, I can fill the folder with RPD's
Dick

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