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coppercoins.com Forum Index arrow Coin Photography Help arrow Need help on Basics of coin photography

Need help on Basics of coin photography
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Earwig
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 1:33 pm Reply with quote

Do you guy use a tripod and put the lense of your digital cam on 1 of the eye pieces? I got a bunch of stuff i would like to take pics of and just gotta get a start and work from there. Thanks for any help. Im working with a casio 3.3 mega pixel qv-3000ex

Eric
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Bob P
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 3:38 pm Reply with quote

Eric,
I personally do not use a tripod. I use an adapter that mounts on the lens of the camera and over one of the microscope lenses. This is made from PVC pipe that Chuck and his uncle made for me.
I have taken pictures by holding the camera up to the microscope, but invariably, they tend to be blurry. If you haven't done so already, read the previous threads in the 'Coin Photography Help' and there should be some decent pics and help concerning this.
You should just experiment until you find something that works for you. I am not familiar with your camera, so I can not offer any more advice right now.

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wavysteps2003
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:25 pm Reply with quote

I'm not as sophisticated as Bob is, I just slap the carmers flush to one eye piece and shoot away. Of course I do a lot of wavy steps that require different angles of light on just one coin, so the PVC adapter would be more of a hinderance than a help.

Everyone develops their own style, as you will with practice. I am still in the learning stage, but when I shoot a picture, my ain is for clarity, focus and contents, with some emphasis on color, which I consider not the most important part of the photo. I guess that is why my pictures tend to be a bit more gold, instead of copper. I am happy with thee results though and that is what counts, taking pleasure in the work that you do.

WAVYSTEPS2003 akaBJ Neff

PS - Should add that I use a OLYMPUS, D460 Zoom with only 1.3 mpix and macro setting.
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coop
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 14, 2006 11:27 pm Reply with quote

I take images from a microscope while holding my camera. But if you have blurry images, try this. I shoot through one eyepiece so you need to adjust to suit that eyepiece for an image. While viewing in stereo the image might not be sharp enough for a camera shot through one eyepiece. So after postioning the ramp and lighting, THEN I do a final adjustment looking through the side of the scope (close the other eye) I will take an image with. If you don't the image won't be as sharp as you want it.
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Steven
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:12 am Reply with quote

Cool avatar coop Cool

Steven
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coop
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 10:41 am Reply with quote

I looked the other day at the avitar selection and noticed just a few there, so I thought of making some new ones. You know you get used to see individuals with the avitar on the left and someone else used the same one. You glance over and and think you are talking to one person and it is a different one as that low number of avitars. So I decided to change that. I got the idea for the Indian Cent from my last purchase and I'm still trying other interesting ones that pop into my head. It was my favorite since I first saw it. If anyone has an suggestions. Feel free to email me.
richard.cooper3@worldnet.att.net

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walkingdude
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:33 pm Reply with quote

My scope has rubber eye pieces that my camera just happens to fit into perfectly, I have to use the right tube since the left one you adjust to see clearly to match the right tube.
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coop
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:37 pm Reply with quote

Then that one is the one you should focus to and close the right eye till it is right where you want the sharpness to be. Then click away. Don't wit too ling to take the shot as sometimes scopes will drift down from pressure or lack of friction. If pressure is the problem, don't bear down on the camera, just get it close enough to get the shot without touching the scope. If pressue from the camera is no problem then use the scope to hold the camera still till you got your image.
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walkingdude
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:47 pm Reply with quote

Not sure I understand, my scope has diopler {sp} where you use the right side for closeness and the left side to match. I jsut put the lense inside the rubber tube, check the screen on the camera and shoot away. Pressure isn't a factore I have t use a knob to move up/down. My problem is keeping the image where I want it trying to keep the camera steady looking at the screen and making sure I haven't pulled the camera out. Laughing Laughing Laughing

I tryed the left tube but I take it the focus for the tube screws with the focus on the camera. Smile

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coop
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 15, 2006 8:57 pm Reply with quote

It take a few (hundred?) images to get what you want, then the next 10,000 are easier. But don't be afraid to change to see if something else works for you. I find images that I took years ago that I have advanced my ideas of taking images now that makes me feel I was then in Kindergarden. Wink Wink

Best thing is to try different things, keep what works and toss out what doesn't and don't be surprised that you back track because you are just unhappy with what you are currently doing. Ask questions. Another one of us here may offer a suggestion or a start for another conclussion you haven't thought of yet.

Keep on clickin'

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walkingdude
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:08 pm Reply with quote

God, I'm gonna need a lot of batteries. Laughing Laughing Laughing
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wavysteps2003
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 6:24 pm Reply with quote

Batteries - get the rechargable, it is definitely the way to go.

WAVYSTEPS2003 aka BJ Neff
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walkingdude
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 7:40 pm Reply with quote

I was gonna say rechargeable but that wasn't funny. Laughing Laughing
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Dick
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:52 am Reply with quote

Actually, you can get a wall xfmr to supply the "juice", and shoot all day long! My cameras operate off the computer when "plugged in", and batteries or its own power supply when free. The USB cable is very useful.
As for the scope, shooting thru the eye-piece is a bit of a pain, with, or without an adaptor! My scope has both eye-pieces adjustable, and the whole head assembly adjustable, as well. I focus thru the lens, (eye-piece), with the camera, (video), in place, and then looking thru the other eye-piece, notice the view is "OUT of focus!, Most of the time I can fix this with the eye-piece adjustment, but not always! When all is said and done, the view on screen IN FOCUS, is the one that gets used.
Dick

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cnladue
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 10:58 pm Reply with quote

i have taken apart EVERY pair of binnoculars and eyepieces in my home now.
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