1989 S Proof Lincoln

[Rhubarb]

I was going thru proof's tonite and ran across this one. What causes the different color above the letter's on the reverse only.

Rhubarb


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[Steven]

I hope that I am correct in what I think I saw in another post here somewhere by Chuck.
"The copper plating splits open at the outer edges of the letters caused by pressure".

Steven

[Rhubarb]

Steven,

I'm inclined to agree with you. I also found a similar coin from 1990. I do beleive next time I go to the coin club meeting I will take my loop and a flashlight. I have never seen that many coin's flowing thru a single place. Isn't this Fun? !!!

[coop]

Pressure and also heat stretching. I try to find any of the new coins without the mark on the edges, full lettering, no bag nicks in field or devices. If you can find these with a full strike on BU coins, those would be the ones to save for future collectors. Bag nick lower grading. Spots and discoloration only get worse with time. Exposed copper plating on the core will only get worse with time. They will bubble/erode in time and only get worse with age. The higher grade of coin you can find, the more valuable it will be to future collectors. I went through a bunch of 2006-P rolls and only found about 15 that I save for another inspection. Later I checked them again and elminated almost all of them. I'm looking for the super hig grade coins. These are nice if you can find BU rolls of the current year to search. They only cost you the time to look as you can send them into circulation and get your money back. I had a bank roll of 1985-D Cents that I bought. I only found one in the roll that I kept for a high grade coin. Sometimes none are of the quality you want. I put the check again ones aside to look another day and see if there was anything distracting that would not make it a fantastic coin. Shooting for a MS-68 look. If not, I put them to work in circulation.

[Rhubarb]

Coop,

On your reply, you are talking about the squiqqly line's that all over the coin? You are saying that these are from bag mark's and aged Die? The coin's I'm looking for are free from these, and any discoloration that may occure. This coin that is pictured above is a Proof, I'm lead to beleive that it is a low grade proof. With the naked eye it's hard to see as you know. I paid .30 apiece, I guess I got what I paid for.

David

[coop]

David: Consider it a .30 Cent lesson. Imagine if you paid hundreds of dollars for this coin and checked back with it in seveal years and found deteriation/bubbling/a hole where the plating is separated. So you got an inexpensive lesson on what to look for when buying another coin. This can happen to proof and business strike coins as illustrated by your coin. The die isn't at fault. In the striking the pressure/heat/movement cause the marks you see. Now you and everyone reading this thread will know what coins to advoid. So consider your glad you didn't pay more than what you did. Another thing to watch for on the 80's coins and even current coins is the orange rind look caused by improper rinsing before plating. Image buying a coin with this reaction on a let's say a 1983P-1DR-001 or a 1984P-1DO-001. You might pay hundreds of dollars for these coins, but with the separated plating or bumpy texture from a poor rinse, you would be greatly disappointed in the long run. So this is just a couple of thing to look for when purchasing a coin, BU or proof.

[eagames]

Good examples.

The worst bump's and plating was in 82 when they first started using plated zinc then slowly they got better until about 1990.
A lot of those 1983P-1DR-001 and 1984P-1DO-001 will have plating bumps, pimples, stains and those spots will get worse. Faster if exposed to enviornment and heat and slower if well sealed and moderate temp.

The problem is most of those 83 and 84 double dies will have plating problems or dark spots so a nicer one is more rare. Any of them should be well stored to minimize that but nothing will totaly stop it.

[Dick]

David, you will find that the '80's were very bad about the bumps, blisters, and stains, etc, overall. The '82's were the first of a new composition, and had many problems, and changes. Note that there are seven types, and the "S", proof. The best way to determine which is which, is to weigh them, The copper cents weigh 3.11 grams, while the "zinc" weigh 2.5 grams. There are large dates, and small dates in both, but there is one exception. The Denver copper cent had only the large date. The difference is mostly in the "8". The top half of the small date is a very noice circle, while the large date has an "oval" shape, that is not too much different from the small date. It is easiest to have one of each for a while, intil you recognise the difference. It takes a while!
And now a question for Coop, and/ Bob: On the site, I have found coins that had the markers on the OBV, and only one, or two on the REV. Some of the coins had none, but the indicators on the field(s) seem to indicate a coin made from that die, but, at an earlier date. How is that coin "typed", in this case? Is this where the "Sorry, no photos available at this time", come intio play?
Dick

[coop]

Dick: The coins that were post are part of a series of coins made from a die. In some instances the markers may be there or may not as it depends on when the marker appeared on the coin. Some markers come and go, some like cracks/chips/break progressivley get worse. But sometimes the pair is split up and a new reverse was changed out and other one added. The RPM book lists stages. These stages are related to scratches/gouges/cracks-chips-breaks/changes of dies/die clash appearing/fading/die flow. So instead of showing all these stages, coppercoins simplifies it to three die states to able to put markers with these die states rather than with die changes. Basicly the die states are set buy one example in each die state. If you find stronger die scratches on your coin, it could have been struch before the coin example posted. If the die scratches are weaker you coin could have been made after the example show in the images.
The ones with No Photo's Available are just that. We haven't received an example to photo yet in that die state or from that die yet. When you see examples of these missing images, then contact Bob to see if he has one yet, and if at all possible if you have a duplicate, send him one so he can add it to the coppercoins library. This helps as a future reference to check later for a question on a certain die. If they have the coin they can re-check it. But when there is no extra, they photo shat they can and hope they didn't miss something, because they may never see that coin in hand again. So if you have a duplicate, they would appreciate it for their files.